Hemi Motor Mount Options
There are a number of options for mounting your Hemi into your A, B, or E Body Mopar. First a quick review Mopar K-Members. The K-Member or engine cradle is stamped steel K shaped object that supports the engine. Chrysler used several different K-members over the years. Each K-member was designed to hold a different engine. There were specific K-Members for Slant-6, Small Block V-8, Big Block V-8 and Hemi cars. Knowing which K-member you have will help speed installation of you Gen III Hemi.
So what are your options for mounting your Hemi?
1. Make your own. Once you've seen pictures of the Hemi motor mounts you'll see that it isn't all that difficult to fabricate your own mounts, and if you have the time and welding skills this will save you between $200 and $250.00. Below are a couple of pics I found of a guy who made his own mounts. As you can see, it isn't rocket science to make a set of mounts, particularly if you have the 67-72 biscuit style mounts.
The other option, that some have done is fabricate a motor plate and rigidly mount the Hemi in your Mopar. Either way, your skill level and the eventual use of your Mopar will dictate how you mount the motor. For example, a motor plate might make the most sense if you plan to bracket race the car and install a cage with the appropriate forward supports.
A final option, which might be particularly attractive if you're putting your Hemi into a street-rod, are these fabricator mounts from Tin Man Fabrication. At $165.00 they aren't cheap, but they do look professional.
You can find them here:
Tin Man Fabrication
2. Buy mounts designed to mount a modern Hemi in your classic Mopar. This is where you need to know what type of K-Member you have, as both aftermarket mounts are designed to work with V-8 K members. So if you're like me, and have a Slant-6 car you will need to find a suitable donor Small Block K-member.
For 67-72 A-Bodies you have two choices of mounts. The first is TTI's mounts, they are made by Schumacher but sold exclusively through TTI and their distributors. The TTI's retail for approximately $133.00 + the appropriate biscuit style mounts which vary greatly in price, depending upon quality. For example, biscuit mounts with embedded bolts are quite a bit more than the standard solid rubber mounts. The second choice is Street and Performance mounts, these mounts sell for $151.95 and likewise you'll need to bring your own biscuit type mounts to the party. They both accomplish the same thing and are similarly priced. I'd choose the one's you think look nicer.
Here's a pic of the TTI biscuit style mount.
For 73-76 A-Bodies you have one choice for Mounts, TTI. They list for $250.00 which is more than the earlier style mounts, but you get a more secure engine mount, and you don't need to buy motor mounts as the rubber or urethane isolation is integral to the adapter.
Here's a pic of the TTI spool type mount.
You can find TTI's mounts here:
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/
You can find Street and Performance Mounts Here:
http://www.rodlane.cc/
3. Swap out your factory K-member for a tubular one with mounts already welded on, all three manufacturers listed below offer 5.7L Hemi and 6.1L Hemi mounts as an option. Over the past several years a number of manufacturers have begun to offer after-market K-members. These have the advantage of lightening the car as well as improving the handling, and a plethora of brake options. The major downside is that they are not cheap.
In my opinion the best option for aftermarket K-members is Reilly Motorsports Alter-k-tion. This is a true bolt in design that completely replaces the stock K-Member and all associated hardware. It changes the Mopar torsion bar suspension to a coil over suspension and removes 80 pounds off the front end of you classic Mopar. The Alter-k-tion has a true following on the web, and Bill Reilly has a reputation of standing behind his products. I really wanted to run and Alter-k-tion, but alas I cannot afford it. The other major benefit to the Alter-k-tion is that it frees up enough room to run power rack and pinion steering as well as creating enough room to shoe horn a Hemi into a pre-67 A-Body.
Here's a link to Reilly Motorsports:
http://www.reillymotorsports.com/
The second option is Magnum Forces Tubular K-member. Magnum Forces products have appeared in Hot-Rod and on TV. The major downside to the Magnum Force kit is that it NOT a true bolt-on. The Magnum Force coil over kit REQUIRES that the factory shock towers be re-inforced. The shock towers on Mopars were NEVER designed to hold up the weight of the car, and as a result reinforcing them to withstand the coil-over conversion is an absolute necessity.
Here's a link to Magnum Force:
http://www.magnumforceracing.com/
The third option is Cap-Auto tubular K-Frame. This has the benefit of being quite a bit cheaper than the other two after-market K-members. It retains your torsion bars, but doesn't remove quite as much weight off the front end. The issue with Cap-Auto is their reputation for quality, simply put they don't have one. There have been numerous instances of their products failing. If had a good experience with Cap-Auto feel free to let me know.
Here's a link to Cap Auto:
http://www.capautoproducts.com/
