In an earlier blog posting I briefly wrote about the an alternative K-Member made by Cap-Auto. Since that time Cap Auto has been bought out by QA1. QA1 has a good reputation for quality and a number of companies use their adjustable 2-way and 4-way shocks. Although tubular upper and lower control arms are available from QA1, they have not yet released the Cap Auto K-member or a redesigned K-Member.
You can see the control arms here:
http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/suspension-components/control-arms/mopar-control-arms.html
You can see the coming soon page for the tubular K-member here:
http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/suspension-components/k-members/mopar-k-members.html
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Mount 'em Part Deux
In an earlier post I described the various aftermarket K-members available for the classic Mopars. Unfortunately I left out one option for B and E body owners.
XV Motrosports has an aluminum K-member (although it is no longer in the shape of a K, for that matter neither are the other alternatives for K-members, but I digress) Prices start at $5500.00, the good news is XV has been around for a few years, and the chatter on the internet is generally positive. Like RMS, Magnum Force, and Cap Auto, you simply state the type of engine your installing when you order your suspension package.
You can find more information Here:
XV Motorsports
XV Motrosports has an aluminum K-member (although it is no longer in the shape of a K, for that matter neither are the other alternatives for K-members, but I digress) Prices start at $5500.00, the good news is XV has been around for a few years, and the chatter on the internet is generally positive. Like RMS, Magnum Force, and Cap Auto, you simply state the type of engine your installing when you order your suspension package.
You can find more information Here:
XV Motorsports
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Mount 'em
Hemi Motor Mount Options
There are a number of options for mounting your Hemi into your A, B, or E Body Mopar. First a quick review Mopar K-Members. The K-Member or engine cradle is stamped steel K shaped object that supports the engine. Chrysler used several different K-members over the years. Each K-member was designed to hold a different engine. There were specific K-Members for Slant-6, Small Block V-8, Big Block V-8 and Hemi cars. Knowing which K-member you have will help speed installation of you Gen III Hemi.
So what are your options for mounting your Hemi?
1. Make your own. Once you've seen pictures of the Hemi motor mounts you'll see that it isn't all that difficult to fabricate your own mounts, and if you have the time and welding skills this will save you between $200 and $250.00. Below are a couple of pics I found of a guy who made his own mounts. As you can see, it isn't rocket science to make a set of mounts, particularly if you have the 67-72 biscuit style mounts.
The other option, that some have done is fabricate a motor plate and rigidly mount the Hemi in your Mopar. Either way, your skill level and the eventual use of your Mopar will dictate how you mount the motor. For example, a motor plate might make the most sense if you plan to bracket race the car and install a cage with the appropriate forward supports.
A final option, which might be particularly attractive if you're putting your Hemi into a street-rod, are these fabricator mounts from Tin Man Fabrication. At $165.00 they aren't cheap, but they do look professional.
You can find them here:
Tin Man Fabrication
2. Buy mounts designed to mount a modern Hemi in your classic Mopar. This is where you need to know what type of K-Member you have, as both aftermarket mounts are designed to work with V-8 K members. So if you're like me, and have a Slant-6 car you will need to find a suitable donor Small Block K-member.
For 67-72 A-Bodies you have two choices of mounts. The first is TTI's mounts, they are made by Schumacher but sold exclusively through TTI and their distributors. The TTI's retail for approximately $133.00 + the appropriate biscuit style mounts which vary greatly in price, depending upon quality. For example, biscuit mounts with embedded bolts are quite a bit more than the standard solid rubber mounts. The second choice is Street and Performance mounts, these mounts sell for $151.95 and likewise you'll need to bring your own biscuit type mounts to the party. They both accomplish the same thing and are similarly priced. I'd choose the one's you think look nicer.
Here's a pic of the TTI biscuit style mount.
For 73-76 A-Bodies you have one choice for Mounts, TTI. They list for $250.00 which is more than the earlier style mounts, but you get a more secure engine mount, and you don't need to buy motor mounts as the rubber or urethane isolation is integral to the adapter.
Here's a pic of the TTI spool type mount.
You can find TTI's mounts here:
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/
You can find Street and Performance Mounts Here:
http://www.rodlane.cc/
3. Swap out your factory K-member for a tubular one with mounts already welded on, all three manufacturers listed below offer 5.7L Hemi and 6.1L Hemi mounts as an option. Over the past several years a number of manufacturers have begun to offer after-market K-members. These have the advantage of lightening the car as well as improving the handling, and a plethora of brake options. The major downside is that they are not cheap.
In my opinion the best option for aftermarket K-members is Reilly Motorsports Alter-k-tion. This is a true bolt in design that completely replaces the stock K-Member and all associated hardware. It changes the Mopar torsion bar suspension to a coil over suspension and removes 80 pounds off the front end of you classic Mopar. The Alter-k-tion has a true following on the web, and Bill Reilly has a reputation of standing behind his products. I really wanted to run and Alter-k-tion, but alas I cannot afford it. The other major benefit to the Alter-k-tion is that it frees up enough room to run power rack and pinion steering as well as creating enough room to shoe horn a Hemi into a pre-67 A-Body.
Here's a link to Reilly Motorsports:
http://www.reillymotorsports.com/
The second option is Magnum Forces Tubular K-member. Magnum Forces products have appeared in Hot-Rod and on TV. The major downside to the Magnum Force kit is that it NOT a true bolt-on. The Magnum Force coil over kit REQUIRES that the factory shock towers be re-inforced. The shock towers on Mopars were NEVER designed to hold up the weight of the car, and as a result reinforcing them to withstand the coil-over conversion is an absolute necessity.
Here's a link to Magnum Force:
http://www.magnumforceracing.com/
The third option is Cap-Auto tubular K-Frame. This has the benefit of being quite a bit cheaper than the other two after-market K-members. It retains your torsion bars, but doesn't remove quite as much weight off the front end. The issue with Cap-Auto is their reputation for quality, simply put they don't have one. There have been numerous instances of their products failing. If had a good experience with Cap-Auto feel free to let me know.
Here's a link to Cap Auto:
http://www.capautoproducts.com/
There are a number of options for mounting your Hemi into your A, B, or E Body Mopar. First a quick review Mopar K-Members. The K-Member or engine cradle is stamped steel K shaped object that supports the engine. Chrysler used several different K-members over the years. Each K-member was designed to hold a different engine. There were specific K-Members for Slant-6, Small Block V-8, Big Block V-8 and Hemi cars. Knowing which K-member you have will help speed installation of you Gen III Hemi.
So what are your options for mounting your Hemi?
1. Make your own. Once you've seen pictures of the Hemi motor mounts you'll see that it isn't all that difficult to fabricate your own mounts, and if you have the time and welding skills this will save you between $200 and $250.00. Below are a couple of pics I found of a guy who made his own mounts. As you can see, it isn't rocket science to make a set of mounts, particularly if you have the 67-72 biscuit style mounts.
The other option, that some have done is fabricate a motor plate and rigidly mount the Hemi in your Mopar. Either way, your skill level and the eventual use of your Mopar will dictate how you mount the motor. For example, a motor plate might make the most sense if you plan to bracket race the car and install a cage with the appropriate forward supports.
A final option, which might be particularly attractive if you're putting your Hemi into a street-rod, are these fabricator mounts from Tin Man Fabrication. At $165.00 they aren't cheap, but they do look professional.
You can find them here:
Tin Man Fabrication
2. Buy mounts designed to mount a modern Hemi in your classic Mopar. This is where you need to know what type of K-Member you have, as both aftermarket mounts are designed to work with V-8 K members. So if you're like me, and have a Slant-6 car you will need to find a suitable donor Small Block K-member.
For 67-72 A-Bodies you have two choices of mounts. The first is TTI's mounts, they are made by Schumacher but sold exclusively through TTI and their distributors. The TTI's retail for approximately $133.00 + the appropriate biscuit style mounts which vary greatly in price, depending upon quality. For example, biscuit mounts with embedded bolts are quite a bit more than the standard solid rubber mounts. The second choice is Street and Performance mounts, these mounts sell for $151.95 and likewise you'll need to bring your own biscuit type mounts to the party. They both accomplish the same thing and are similarly priced. I'd choose the one's you think look nicer.
Here's a pic of the TTI biscuit style mount.
For 73-76 A-Bodies you have one choice for Mounts, TTI. They list for $250.00 which is more than the earlier style mounts, but you get a more secure engine mount, and you don't need to buy motor mounts as the rubber or urethane isolation is integral to the adapter.
Here's a pic of the TTI spool type mount.
You can find TTI's mounts here:
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/
You can find Street and Performance Mounts Here:
http://www.rodlane.cc/
3. Swap out your factory K-member for a tubular one with mounts already welded on, all three manufacturers listed below offer 5.7L Hemi and 6.1L Hemi mounts as an option. Over the past several years a number of manufacturers have begun to offer after-market K-members. These have the advantage of lightening the car as well as improving the handling, and a plethora of brake options. The major downside is that they are not cheap.
In my opinion the best option for aftermarket K-members is Reilly Motorsports Alter-k-tion. This is a true bolt in design that completely replaces the stock K-Member and all associated hardware. It changes the Mopar torsion bar suspension to a coil over suspension and removes 80 pounds off the front end of you classic Mopar. The Alter-k-tion has a true following on the web, and Bill Reilly has a reputation of standing behind his products. I really wanted to run and Alter-k-tion, but alas I cannot afford it. The other major benefit to the Alter-k-tion is that it frees up enough room to run power rack and pinion steering as well as creating enough room to shoe horn a Hemi into a pre-67 A-Body.
Here's a link to Reilly Motorsports:
http://www.reillymotorsports.com/
The second option is Magnum Forces Tubular K-member. Magnum Forces products have appeared in Hot-Rod and on TV. The major downside to the Magnum Force kit is that it NOT a true bolt-on. The Magnum Force coil over kit REQUIRES that the factory shock towers be re-inforced. The shock towers on Mopars were NEVER designed to hold up the weight of the car, and as a result reinforcing them to withstand the coil-over conversion is an absolute necessity.
Here's a link to Magnum Force:
http://www.magnumforceracing.com/
The third option is Cap-Auto tubular K-Frame. This has the benefit of being quite a bit cheaper than the other two after-market K-members. It retains your torsion bars, but doesn't remove quite as much weight off the front end. The issue with Cap-Auto is their reputation for quality, simply put they don't have one. There have been numerous instances of their products failing. If had a good experience with Cap-Auto feel free to let me know.
http://www.capautoproducts.com/
Thursday, July 28, 2011
The Doctor is in...
In 2003 Chrysler reintroduced the first production Hemi engine after a thirty-two year absence. This new Hemi immediately provoked a wave of Mopar performance. The 2003 Hemi generated 345 HP in an engine with a displacement of 345 cubic inches, its performance potential was clear. Within a short period of time a few brave souls began to transplant this new motor into classic Mopars.
At first swapping the Gen III Hemi into a classic Mopar was not for the faint of heart. It took a few years for the aftermarket to begin supporting this engine swap. Today, swapping a late model 5.7L Hemi, 6.1L Hemi or a 6.4L Hemi into your classic Mopar requires little more than writing a substantial check.
I'm sure we'd all love to have the resources necessary to make this swap by simply writing a check. Even if we planned to do most of the work ourselves, having unlimited resources would make this engine swap a snap. Unfortunately most of us don't have unlimited resources, and even those of us who do we all want and need information that will allow us to spend our money wisely.
This website is dedicated to providing comprehensive information about economically and painlessly swapping the Gen III Hemi into your classic Mopar. This website is dedicated to providing the automotive enthusiast with a prescription for Hemi success.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
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